Loreto: This West Mexico getaway is pure magic
Set in Mexico’s Baja California Sur, the town of Loreto boasts a rare combination of qualities. It’s the gateway to Loreto Bay National Park, 800 square miles of stunning water rung around five uninhabited, beach-blessed volcanic islands—the stuff tranquil, castaway-fantasy day trips are made of. On shore, its scenic waterfront is flanked on either end by more lovely beaches. And its downtown is a pedestrian-friendly jewel, the crown of which is its grand 17th-century mission. It was the first built in the Californias, a detail that gives just a peek into the region’s intriguing history.
The area, set on the central coast of the Baja peninsula, is just unknown enough to retain its hidden-gem feel. And yet an international airport with direct flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Dallas and Phoenix makes getting there a cinch. Here’s a closer look at the serene resort area the Mexican government has officially designated one if its pueblos magicos—that is “magical towns”—and what to do on your trip.
Wander through historic and charming downtown Loreto
Once you arrive in Loreto, the picturesque surroundings and warm weather (even in January, the average daily high is 73 degrees) make the idea of getting outside to explore immediately appealing. Fortunately, downtown Loreto is an exceptionally pedestrian-friendly place. Its malecón, a paved waterfront walking path, stretches for nearly a mile, giving strollers, runners and bikers stunning outlooks over the sea and nearby islands. A variety of independent restaurants and shops await in the quiet streets on the other side of the avenue.
Undoubtedly the neighborhood's most striking piece of architecture, however, is its historic church—widely known as the "mother of all missions" in the Californias, since it was the first built and served as a headquarters for subsequent missions. Founded in 1697 by Italian missionary Juan María de Salvatierra, the Baroque-style Mission of Our Lady of Loreto (Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto) is crowned by a domed bell tower. Inside, its gilded altar offers stunning examples of religious art and Spanish Rococo style.
Tip: Fans of religious history and architecture should make a day trip to San Javier Mission (officially Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó), about 24 miles away. The sprawling, beautifully preserved mission cuts an impressive silhouette against a backdrop of the Sierra de la Giganta mountains.
Explore waters Jacques Cousteau deemed “the aquarium of the world”
As picturesque as they are, Loreto's missions are just the beginning of the area's divine sights. Snorkelers, divers and paddlers can take to the protected Gulf of California (aka the Sea of Cortez) just offshore to immerse in an underwater menagerie.
World-famous ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau dubbed these waters "the aquarium of the world," so immense is their biodiversity. In fact, UNESCO inscribed the Gulf's islands and protected areas on its World Heritage Site list in 2005, citing, among many other staggering statistics, its 891 fish species, 90 of which are endemic.
Those looking for a Cousteau-worthy aquatic adventure can head for the region's top dive and snorkel sites with the help of a local tour company. Swim with friendly sea lions, sea turtles or stingrays; observe delicate seahorses, Pacific trumpetfish or porcupinefish—indeed, the potential for marine life sightings is wide open.
The Sea of Cortez is also prime place for encounters with larger aquatic life. Book a spot on a small-group excursion in search of the blue whales, fin whales and humpback whales that settle seasonally in the Gulf. (The best whale watching months are typically February and March, though the massive mammals have been sighted in January in recent years, too.) For those more interested in landing a big catch, sport fishing charters are also readily available from local outfitters.
Sail off to pristine natural islands in Loreto Bay National Park
On the topic of boat trips, journeying out on the water is really an essential experience in Loreto, since it's the only way to visit the uninhabited islands of Loreto Bay National Park. There are five main islands within the boundaries of the 800-square-mile park, plus numerous islets, submarine canyons and other intriguing geological formations. A number of local tours include transportation to the islands and water sports equipment to use once there. Advance reservations are recommended.
Set seven miles off the coast of Loreto, Isla Coronados' volcanic origins are evident in the lava-formed cliffs that encircle it. Below these, white sandy beaches offer the chance to sun in utter quiet, save for the occasional bark from a resident sea lion. You'll want to peel yourself away from the shore for at least a short while, however, to pull on your snorkel mask and explore the unspoiled underwater world that surrounds.
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On Isla Del Carmen, the park's largest island, a flock of wild bighorn sheep has supplanted the humans that resided here until 1984, when a longstanding salt mining operation ceased. Now a private nature reserve, the island still harbors significant salt deposits, plus the remains of a school, warehouses, a church and a number of other buildings from its former life. Native flora and fauna now dominate the protected landscape, however. In the waters around the island, you'll find a sunken ship teeming with marine life, plus a number of scenic coves and caverns ideal for paddling.
Isla Danzante is one of the park's most popular island destinations thanks in no small part to its Instagram-ready Honeymoon Beach, a sandy cove protected on either side by romantically rugged bluffs. The gorgeous sands are not where this island's intrigue ends, however. Dolphin sightings are common in the waters around the island, while famed blue-footed boobies—an object of fascination for Cousteau himself—live on its shore. The island also makes a stellar dive destination; just off its shores, you'll find a kaleidoscope of life in the banks of black coral less than 30 feet below the surface.
Savor fine dining and chic accommodations
Though the region is known for its raw natural beauty, those lucky enough to discover Loreto will hardly have to rough it. Within the town's quiet streets, you'll find a variety of dining and accommodations options ideal for recharging after an active day.
Not surprisingly, the local Mexican food is especially beloved. You'll find both casual spots like Asadero Super Burro, where the large portions and entertaining open kitchen are a hit; and fine-dining venues like newcomer Ocotillo in the Aventuras Hotel, where the artfully prepared local seafood wins raves.
Mi Loreto Cocina is another local favorite for its handmade tortillas and fantastic mole sauce served in a colorful open-air setting. When the night calls for pizza and ice-cold cervezas, El Zopilote Brewing Co., with its relaxation-inducing Baja-style beer garden, is the go-to.
As far as where to stay, your options are similarly varied. Those looking for luxurious, all-inclusive-optional accommodations should consider Villa del Palmar at the Islands of Loreto. Set about 30 miles south of town, the resort boasts a glorious location (beachfront with a backdrop of the Sierra de la Giganta mountains) and an award-winning golf course incorporating desert, canyon, coastal, dune and mountain terrain.
In town, La Mision Loreto Hotel puts travelers directly across from Loreto's vista-blessed malecón and steps away from the independent boutiques and restaurants of downtown. Posada del Cortes offers affordable stays in comfortable, Spanish colonial-style rooms just a block from the beach. Boutique hotels Posada de las Flores, Hotel Hacienda Suites and Hotel 1697 are just a few more examples of the lovely local accommodations options to consider.