Sicily 101: Here’s what you need to know
Dramatic beaches, volcanic islands, UNESCO World Heritage sites, boisterous cities, tiny hilltop towns and knock-out food and wine. Welcome to Sicily, the richly dynamic sun-soaked Italian island off the "toe" of the mainland.
When to go to Sicily
Look at a map, and you’ll see Sicily is smack dab in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, not far from the coast of North Africa. This position gives it a sunny Mediterranean climate that’s pleasant year-round. High season coincides with the summer months, though tourism also spikes during Easter and Christmas. During these periods, airfare, hotel rates, and crowds are at their highest. For quieter visits, April, May, June, or September are ideal.
Getting there
Travelers from the U.S. typically fly to Catania (CTA) or Palermo (PMO) via major European cities due to limited direct flights.
Essential info
The official language is Italian, though English is spoken in most hotels and major tourist areas.
Once in Sicily, the best way to get around is by car—whether a taxi, hired driver or rental car. Bus and train systems exist, but a car lets you maximize your time or explore off the beaten track. Just be sure to get the most comprehensive car insurance option you can. Driving in Sicily can have its unsettling moments—navigating switchbacks on your way up to Taormina, for example, or simply trying to claim your bit of road alongside Sicilian drivers (who aren't a shy bunch).
Where to stay
Sicily is deceptively large, so where you make your base of operations is an important decision. Most travelers want to spend at least a couple of nights in Taormina, the historic mountaintop resort town with head-spinning views of Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea. (A hundred years ago, Taormina's beauty drew the likes of Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams; today, its VIP cred lives on with a recent starring turn in HBO's "White Lotus.") Taormina hotels can be a bit of a splurge; a more affordable alternative is Giardini Naxos, a beach town about 15 minutes south. From there, you can get a taxi or hop on the Interbus bus line to Taormina.
For oenophiles and nature lovers, a memorable Sicily stay is a country boutique resort on the slopes of Mount Etna. Here, you'll be among vineyards, herb gardens, fruit-bearing trees and citrus and olive groves. Many Mount Etna organic farm stays and eco-resorts produce their own wine and olive oil. To explore Sicily's southeast, plan a couple of nights in one or two of the fantastic Baroque towns of Noto, Ragusa and Modica. All have charming boutique hotels in historic buildings. The same is true for Syracuse, which was once the largest city in the known world under ancient Greek rule. Alternatively, pick a villa stay in the surrounding countryside (the UNESCO-listed Val de Noto).
For beach time, carve out a few nights at a beach resort in San Vito Lo Capo (the poster child for Sicily’s beaches, with clear, Caribbean-like teal waters stretching way, way out). The picture-perfect beach town of Cefalu, with a lively lungomare (beach promenade) and a 12th-century Norman cathedral, has town-center boutique stays and beachfront bungalow resorts slightly out of town. The islands of Salina, Lampedusa, Ustica, Lipari, Panarea, Pantelleria, Vulcano, Stromboli and others are popular for travelers.
On the front or back end of your trip, after arriving or before departing, spend a few nights in Palermo and Catania to experience Sicily at its most dynamic and decadent. Both cities have hotel options running the gamut from grand and historic (Hotel Wagner in Palermo) to art-filled and one-of-a-kind (Asmundo di Gisira in Catania).
What to do
Beaches and islands: If you’re planning a trip to a Mediterranean island, there’s a good chance you’re interested in visiting its beaches. The shallow water and mellow swells found at popular beaches like epic San Vito Lo Capo and Spiaggia dei Conigli (on the Sicilian island of Lampedusa) are perfect for wading and relaxing in the surf. Many beaches, like Spiaggia di Mondello, near Palermo, and Spiaggia di San Lorenzo, near the famous Baroque town of Noto, have a paid section offering sunbeds, umbrellas, lockers and changing areas.
The island's first nature reserve, Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro, stretches along the northwest coast and offers sea-view hiking trails, hidden coves and gorgeous beaches—some of Sicily’s best.
Sicily has dozens of off-shore islands, seven belonging to the UNESCO-protected Aeolian chain. Lipari is the largest of these volcanic rocks; its pebble beaches have splashy beach clubs and glassy blue waters. More dramatic pebble beaches are found on Salina, also part of the Aeolian chain, along with olive farms, fig and citrus groves and Mount Etna views. The Aeolian islands are reachable by ferry from Milazzo on the Sicilian mainland, about two hours north of Catania or an hour north of Taormina.
Wonders of the ancient world: Sicily’s central spot in the Mediterranean has made it a literal crossroads for millennia. Among Sicily’s early invaders were ancient Greeks and Romans, and their monuments live on today. The UNESCO World Heritage Site Valle dei Templi in Agrigento features some of the best-preserved ancient Greek ruins anywhere—even in Greece. On the other side of the island, the spectacular Teatro Antico di Taormina (Greek Theater)—perched over the sea, with straight-on views of Mount Etna—dates to the 3rd century BC. It’s one of the largest ancient theaters in all of Italy.
Palermo: Beaches, islands and ancient ruins could easily gobble up a weeks-long itinerary. But Sicily’s cities should top your to-do list, too. Palermo’s Palazzo Normani (and its royal chapel, Cappella Palatina) and Cattedrale di Palermo are must-sees. The striking gold-stone cathedral is one of the city’s many Arab-Norman structures that date to sometime around the turn of the last millennia. Head to its rooftop for an up-close look at the cathedral’s arches, turrets, and towers. Stroll around the souk-like markets and enjoy a night out in the old city’s labyrinthine streets, taking in the cacophony of live music, sizzling street food, rumbling motorbikes and high-spirited young people.
Wineries and Mount Etna tours: UNESCO-listed Mount Etna is Europe’s largest active volcano. When the majestic landmass isn’t erupting in a fiery spectacle over eastern Sicily, it’s one of the island’s most popular destinations. Book a tour to reach the summit with an alpine guide, exploring Etna’s craters and ice caves along the way.
All that volcanic soil and Mediterranean sun create perfect conditions for wine-making. Fun fact: Sicily is Italy’s largest wine-making region, with over 65 varieties and more than 200,000 vineyard acres. In the volcano’s foothills, you can find many highly-rated wineries, such as Fattorie Romeo del Castello, Tenuta di Fessina and Filippo Grasso. Check out Strada del Vino dell'Etna (Etna Wine Road)—not a road for cars, but a twice-weekly scenic ride on a narrow-guage railway taking you to wineries on Etna’s fertile slopes.
What to eat + drink
The Sicilian sun and soil are godsends for growing just about anything. Go to an open-air market—a daily ritual for locals—and you’ll see bright juicy oranges, plump knobs of garlic, gigantic artichokes, pale-green heads of cauliflower and fat tomatoes the color of rubies. Over in La Pescheria, Catania’s bustling fish and food market, vendors sell tuna, swordfish, mussels, and sea urchins just hauled in from the Ionian Sea. It's street theater at its finest, and sure to build up an appetite. Opt for takeaway goods (fried artichoke, antipasto) or street food (ham and cheese calzones, arancini with meat ragu), washed down with a Messina lager.
All across the island are fantastic restaurants and street-food vendors selling meals made entirely of homegrown and local ingredients. Typical dishes include artichoke risotto, seafood arancini and eggplant caponata. Most places offer a local fish of the day, simply steamed or grilled. Of course, pasta dishes run the show: a few local favorites are lobster linguine, black-ink spaghetti, fusilli with clams and shrimp and pasta alla norma (with eggplant and ricotta).
An Aperol Spritz—that gorgeous, apricot-hued aperitif—is a welcome sight just about any time of day. Like elsewhere in Italy, a Negroni is the classic before-dinner drink. Bonus points if you sip it on a balcony or terrace overlooking the blue, blue sea. Earthy Nero d’Avola, native to the area around Noto in the southeast, is Sicily's most iconic varietal.
What to pack
Presentation is as important to Sicilians as it is to mainland Italians, and visitors should follow suit if they don't want to look like tourists. Cotton sundresses, light wide-leg pants, and strappy-but-supportive sandals or white tennis shoes are good choices for women; cotton polo shirts, chinos and fresh sneakers are smart for men.
And don't let the whole "Mediterranean island" thing lead you astray. You'll need to bring warm layers for after sunset, even spring and summer nights. A light sweater and decent jacket are smart to have any time of year. If you're planning Etna or other hiking excursions, pack appropriate footwear and good socks. Bring water shoes, too, as many of Sicily’s beaches are rocky or pebbly.