This expedition cruise changed how I feel about cruising

When I hear the word “cruise,” one thing comes to mind. I think of gargantuan ships that are packed with people and overwhelming in every sense. With restaurants, water slides, live shows and casinos, these ships feel like floating theme parks.  

To each their own, but personally, I’ve never enjoyed being on a large cruise. It's not that I don’t get the appeal. With something for everyone, I think they’re ideal for families and multigenerational travel. That’s never been my travel style, though, so I gave up on cruising a long time ago. 

But that’s all changed now that I’ve gone on my first expedition cruise. Earlier this year, I embarked on a voyage with luxury cruise line Swan Hellenic. Over 10 nights, we sailed from Costa Rica to Colombia via the Panama Canal. The experience completely changed how I feel about cruising as a way to travel. Here’s what I learned along the way. 

Everything is better on a small ship 

The newest of Swan Hellenic’s expedition ships, SH Diana is also the largest. (It’s 410 feet long.) With nine decks, Diana accommodates 127 crew members and a maximum of 192 guests. There were approximately 110 guests on this cruise, making for an incredible crew-to-guest ratio. Onboard amenities included a pool, gym, spa, beauty salon, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi. 

The saying “less is more” rang true throughout my time on the SH Diana. The ship has one main restaurant that serves all meals. That space has a fine-dining feel, but two other eateries offer a more casual vibe. There’s exactly one bar, which sits in the sleek Observation Lounge, the ship’s social hub. Elsewhere, there’s a stargazing deck, a library, an expedition lab and a self-service laundry room. That’s pretty much it. You won’t find any water slides, nightclubs, casinos or theaters here. 

While some might bemoan the lack of options, I enjoyed not being overwhelmed by choice.  Rather than planning out my onboard meals and activities, I was free to relax. Often, the hardest choice I had to make was which entrée to choose for dinner. Or where on the ship to sit to best enjoy the view of the ocean. Thankfully, there was enough variety in the food served throughout the day to prevent boredom. And the menus changed every day, so meals never felt repetitive.  

Aside from streamlined decision-making, there were other benefits to being on SH Diana. Given its relatively intimate size, I quickly learned the lay of the land. And it only took a minute or two to get from one place to another. In addition, the onboard experience was totally different from what you’d find on a big ship. Crew members quickly learned guests’ names (and vice versa). It was easy to strike up conversations with fellow shipmates. People who hadn’t known each other on the first day soon became friends. 

You’ll go places that large ships can’t 

Swan Hellenic’s brand promise is “see what others don’t.”  I quickly saw how they put that into practice during my cruise. Large ships are limited to large ports, but SH Diana has a lot more freedom. Yes, we visited popular destinations like Panama City and Cartagena. But more often than not, it felt like we were venturing way off the beaten path. 

Tracing Costa Rica’s Pacific coastline, we stopped to explore national parks and wildlife refuges. In Panama, we visited Cebaco Island and the San Blas Archipelago, both remote and postcard-worthy. We also stopped at the Darien Jungle, which is only accessible by water.    

Daily excursions are the main attraction 

Embarking on an expedition cruise requires a desire for adventure. And exploration is a key part of the Swan Hellenic experience. Accordingly, the planned daily excursions felt like the most important aspect of the cruise.   

Led by a dedicated expedition team, these onshore activities took place almost every day. Each stop we made had a corresponding excursion that was available to all guests. These included beach visits, hikes through national parks and city tours. In some places, additional activities—think culinary experiences and helicopter tours—were offered for an additional cost. Like me, most guests stuck to the excursions that were included with their cruise fare. 

Our days were very structured. Each evening featured a pre-dinner expedition briefing so we knew what to expect the next day. Members of the expedition team walked us through the schedule and told us what to pack.  In addition, they recapped what we’d done that day and showed photos, which I appreciated.  

In the mornings, following breakfast, we’d be summoned by group to the ship’s base camp. This is where we’d grab our snorkeling gear, put on lifejackets and board the Zodiacs. Then we’d spend a few hours trekking through the rainforest or relaxing on a beautiful island. Spotting wildlife, meeting indigenous people and exploring cities were also key components of our onshore adventures. Afterward, we returned to the ship and headed toward our next destination. 

It's worth noting that these expedition activities weren’t obligatory. There were certainly people, including me, who didn’t go on every excursion. After all, this was meant to be a vacation—why not luxuriate a bit?  

That being said, these onshore activities were a major highlight of my trip. That’s thanks in no small part to the expedition team. They were knowledgeable, good-humored and kept us all safe. Plus, it was evident that they actually cared about the places we visited. They made every effort to leave no trace and give the locals a positive impression. 

The mix of “roughing it” and feeling pampered keeps things interesting 

I know that going on a swanky cruise through Central America may not sound difficult. But sometimes it was! Getting soaked on Zodiac rides and then hopping off into cresting waves wasn’t always easy. Nor was climbing over rocks to discover a hidden cove on a picturesque island. And don’t get me started on the heat and humidity, both in the rainforest and in places like Panama City and Cartagena. 

Now, I like luxury as much as the next traveler, but the contrast of the onshore activities with the onboard experience made my days more interesting. I’d go get sweaty and gross while exploring a national park in the morning. Then, I’d get back on the ship and hop in my cabin’s spacious rainfall shower. Later, I’d enjoy a few cocktails and a very nice four-course dinner. What’s not to love? 

The staff made the whole experience extraordinary 

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention SH Diana’s outstanding crew. From the captain to the expedition team to the servers, everyone went above and beyond. Beyond just doing their jobs well, the staff was extremely friendly and accommodating. The service staff, in particular, struck the right balance of being personable and professional. And I was taken care of very well by my butler, who looked after all my needs and ensured my cabin was always in tip-top shape. When the cruise came to an end, I was genuinely sad to say goodbye to the people who had made the experience so wonderful. 

Going on an expedition cruise was an eye-opening experience, even for a seasoned traveler like me. Now that I know there’s a style of cruising that’s more focused on education and exploration rather onboard entertainment, I might just become a dedicated cruiser after all.