48 hours in Porto
With its historic centre (Ribeira), warm weather all year round, more port than you could possibly drink in any number of weekends, and friendly locals, Portugal’s second-largest city is not a bad place to spend a couple of days. Just make sure you take your walking shoes! Here’s how we’d spend our time there…
Arrival
From Francisco de Sa Carneiro Airport, take the Metro to the city centre. Trains depart every 20-30 minutes (be prepared to wait) and ticket costs 2.35€ per person. The journey takes around 45 minutes to Ribeira (change at Trindade for the yellow line D). Alternatively, a taxi will take 20-30 minutes and cost approximately 30€.
Day One
Morning
Porto is a very walkable city, providing you don’t mind the hills. Wander through the cobbled streets, up to the Porto Cathedral or through the town to sightseers’ favourite, the Torre dos Clérigos. It’s a bit of a climb to the top of the tower, but the views are worth it.
There are also plenty of museums in this part of town, including the Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis (for fine and decorative art), the Centro Português de Fotografia (pictured below, a free photography museum that was once the city's prison), and the Museu do Vinho do Porto (exploring the region’s history of port making).
When you're done with all that, stop for a bite to eat. This area on the Ribeira (which translates as "riverfront") has a vibrant mix of restaurants and market stalls (the latter are open on the weekend), and multiple operators offering to take tourists on the Six Bridges Cruise. At 10€ per person, it’s not a bad way to spend 50 minutes.
Afternoon
The port houses are clustered on the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the River Douro (just across from Porto itself) and it’s an easy 10-minute walk south over the Ponte de Dom Luís I to get there. The bridge (which ferries pedestrians, cars and trains back and forth over its two levels) was originally completed in 1886, by a student of Gustave Eiffel.
Once you’ve crossed the river, you’ll soon come across the first port house on the left-hand side - Burmester dates back to the 18th century and a tour here includes a taste of the white port and the ruby.
Remember to pace yourself though! And if you need to refuel, we recommend tapas (plus a spot of people watching and watery vistas) at the Dourom Restaurant. Elsewhere, look out for the local delicacies - the Francesinha (pictured below - a sandwich with ham, sausage, melted cheese and a thick tomato and beer sauce) and the pasteis de nata (egg tart).
Alternatively, head along the waterfront and up into the hills to your first port house stop. Graham’s is family owned and was one of the first to plant its grapes in Portugal’s Douro Valley. It is also home to the upmarket Vinum Restaurant & Wine Bar, which has panoramic views of the city.
Evening
The locals typically eat dinner at around 9pm - late by British standards. In Ribeira, we recommended the Ode Porto Wine House (pictured below). Reservations are essential and they only accept cash, but the service is excellent and the food is even better. When you arrive, knock on the oak door and wait for the maître d’ to open it. Expect to pay 120-150€ for dinner for two.
Other spots to try include Camafeu in downtown Porto, LSD (Largo de São Domingos), Andor Violeta and Restaurante Mal Cozinhado, which is known for its live fado (the area’s traditional folk music) performances.
For more music, head to HotFive. The live bands (jazz and blues mostly) are excellent and it’s open until late.
Day Two
Morning
A stroll in the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal is a great way to start the day. This maze of secret gardens, aromatic herbs and lines of lime trees is also home to the Museu Romântico (free entry at the weekends).
If the weather is warm, head to the city’s seaside at Foz (pictured below). It’s not much of a beach, but the Parque da Cidade (Portugal’s largest urban park) is also in the area, and the 20-minute journey there on the vintage tram (2.50€ each way, per person) makes the trip worthwhile. Before you hop on Tram 1 at Infante, pop into the Igreja de São Francisco (the stop is right outside). The interior of this baroque church is covered with almost 100kg of golf leaf. Entrance is 3,50€ per adult and photography is not permitted inside.
Afternoon
The other reason to go to the beach is the Oporto Café, which looks out towards Foz’s lighthouse. Reservations are recommended, even for lunch. Ask staff to book a taxi for you once finished, or you can take the bus back to Ribeira (the journey will take around 30 minutes and cost 2€ per person).
Back in Gaia, the port education continues. The impressive Sandeman port house is on the main street, overlooking the water. Cellar tours start at 6€ per person, including two tastings and run in various languages throughout the day. Up the hill, Taylor’s is blessed with panoramic views from the restaurant terrace. Back on the main street, Quinta do Noval and Ramos Pintos are also worth a visit.
As the sun is setting, take the cable car, Teleférico de Gaia (it’s a 5-minute ride and costs 5€ per person) up to Jardim do Morro. This hilltop park is popular with photography enthusiasts - for good reason. It has some of the best views of Porto, particularly at sunset. The Serra do Pilar Monastery, which you’ll have been gazing at from Ribeira, is also here.
Evening
For something really special on your last night, head to Restaurante Casa de Cha da Boa Nova (Boa Nova Teahouse) in Leça da Palmeira. It’s 15 minutes north of the city by taxi, perched on a rocky estuary, overlooking the crashing ocean below. The restaurant’s location and vicinity to the local fish market is reflected in chef Rui Paula’s menu. Reservations are essential.
3 Hotels We Love in Porto
The Artist Porto Hotel & Bistro
Where: Central Porto, within walking distance of the main attractions & the Douro River
Why we love it: This stylish and reasonably priced boutique hotel is housed in a former art school near some of the city’s prime sightseeing locations. The hip restaurant serves tasting dinners, and there’s a decent cocktail bar on site.
Click here for rates and availability
Vincci Porto
Where: In the historic Massarelos district, near the river
Why we love it: Housed in the iconic old Fish Market building, this trendy hotel features high ceilings and avant-garde décor. The Museum of Port Wine and the Crystal Palace Gardens are a stone’s throw away.
Click here for rates and availability
Infante Sagres
Where: 2-minute walk from Aliados Metro station on the northern edge of the historic district
Why we love it: This 5-star design hotel with sleek furniture and retro fittings is a destination its own right. The spa is small but perfectly formed and the restaurant is rightly renowned for its quality.
Click here for rates and availability
This post was written by guest blogger Emma Sheppard